Why Portugal should be on your winter travel bucket list
Visit the islands off season to take in all the natural beauty and avoid the crowds
Just behind the fishing village of Camara de Lobos on Madeira, you can see Cabo Girao, the highest cape in Europe — Photo courtesy of Juergen Sack / iStock Via Getty Images Plus
Travel to Portugal has increased exponentially in recent years, as many continue to discover the cultural and culinary riches of the year-round destination and its stunning capital city, Lisbon.
Especially when considering winter vacation ideas, there are two Portugal gems worth exploring off the mainland: Madeira island and her sibling, Porto Santo.
On a map these islands look closer to Morocco, but the archipelago is an autonomous region of Portugal. Madeira, noted for volcanic peaks, pebble beaches, and flower-bedecked gardens, is the gateway to the region. A smaller island, Porto Santo, is arid, dotted with prickly pear and other cacti, and coated with a long swath of yellow sands.
You can catch daily direct flights from many European cities to Madeira; all fly into Cristiano Ronaldo Madeira International Airport (aka Funchal Airport) in Santa Cruz, the main hub of the island. From the U.S., you can get direct flights to Lisbon on TAP Air Portugal, the country’s budget airline that’s better than many other budget airlines, and then travel from Lisbon to Madeira.
Once on Madeira, you can either fly on BinterCanarias or take a ferry to reach Porto Santo. Flights take about 25 minutes, and the ferry about 2.5 hours.
Portugal weather in the winter
With mild temperatures (60 to 70 F), Madeira and Porto Santo make for a lovely winter getaway from the chilling temperatures found in many other parts of Europe. Traveling to Madeira and Porto Santo in the winter means avoiding the throngs of tourists that flock here during the summer months. Plus, hotel rates tend to be lower, except for dates between Christmas and New Year’s Day.
There’s so much to explore on Madeira and Porto Santo, we’ve highlighted six places that show off the finest outdoor treasures these Portugal islands have to offer.
Hike the Levada do Alecrim on Madeira
Unlike other levadas, the Levada do Alecrim doesn’t present anything too precipitous or vertigo-inducing — Photo courtesy of Carlos Gouvia
Madeira is called the “Garden Island” for a reason. To really see the natural beauty of this lush and verdant landscape, get out and explore one of the many forests and trails. A stone-laden ribbon of a hiking trail, the Levada do Alecrim wanders through a forested landscape thick with the heather that once blanketed most of the island. This ancient forest is so ecologically important, it’s recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Water droplets trickle from leaves, stems, and rocks. A narrow water channel seemingly clinging to the cliffside parallels the path, following the land’s steep contours. At a little more than 2 miles each way (hike in and back along the same trail), walking this path is a serene experience, with sightings of yellow buttercups, wild purple orchids, and the tiny Madeira firecrest, Europe’s smallest bird. The sounds of water tumbling from the waterfall at trail’s end pulls you in, and a bracing pool awaits.
Stroll the Funchal seaside promenade
It’s easy to spend the day wandering to all the swimming, eating, and drinking venues found along the seaside promenade in Funchal — Photo courtesy of Francisco Correia
Meandering along Madeira’s rugged south coast, join the walkers and joggers ambling along the 2-mile seaside promenade between the Lido area and Praia Formosa, a popular beach, in Funchal. Take in the sights along the way, including verdant gardens and green spaces, pebble beaches, public swimming pools, and cafes.
While winter waters might be a bit cool, if you’re out for a swim, stop at one of the public bathing complexes, Ponta Gorda and Lido, for saltwater pools. Or check out tide pools among volcanic rocks around Piscinas Naturais da Doca do Cavacas. From here, the views of Europe’s highest sea cliff, Cabo Girao, can’t be beat.
Hungry? Stop for a bite at popular waterfront eateries like Sushi by Gavinas.
Explore the Madeira Botanical Garden
Stairs and paths climb the many levels of Madeira Botanical Garden, where, at the top, a cable car provides a scenic ride to the village of Monte — Photo courtesy of Ricardo Faria Paulino
Set on a steep hillside almost 1,000 feet above sea level, the Madeira Botanical Garden is home to over 2,000 different plant species from all over the globe.
A network of dark stone paths and steps climb and weave through the vast acreage. The garden is typically thronged with visitors, who often cluster on the lower levels, leaving the upper tiers with a more peaceful vibe. There, isolated benches are scattered about, providing views of the blooms and the sea.
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The landscape is divided into themed sections that include aromatics, camellias, and the flora of Madeira. One of the garden’s signature sights is the Choreographed Gardens, a mosaic of ornamental bloodleaf plants displaying purple, pink, yellow, and red hues. The Madeira Botanical Garden is open every day year-round, except for Christmas Day.
Go bird-watching at the Quinta das Palmeiras on Porto Santo
Visitors often are captivated by the many bird species, plants, and the carp swimming in the pools at Quinta das Palmeires — Photo courtesy of Francisco Correia
Porto Santo island might be defined by its aridness, but the one-acre Quinta das Palmeiras is a leafy refuge, combining a petite garden with an equally wee zoo that’s home to myriad winged creatures.
Peacocks will meet you along the dirt paths, greylag geese and wood ducks float on ponds, and birds flit about at every turn. Sulfur-crested cockatoos, Australian parakeets, and fantails are just a few of the many species found here.
The landscape is lush with Canary Island date and desert fan palms, Monterey pines, Surinam cherry, and Natal plum trees. Depending on the time of year, the many shades of green might be punctuated by brilliantly hued blossoms, whether it’s the pinks and yellows of red hot pokers or the scarlets of firecracker plants.
Visit the sandy Porto Santo beaches
Some people enjoy strolling from their hotel along the long stretch of Porto Santo Beach — Photo courtesy of Francisco Correia
Porto Santo is blessed with more than 5 miles of uninterrupted golden sands along its south coast, perfect for beach walking or simply a relaxing day of sunning and swimming no matter the time of year.
Both the fine sands and the clear, turquoise waters are recognized for their bone, joint, and muscle healing properties, thanks to a high mineral content. (Don’t be alarmed when you spot someone covering their body or just their limbs with sand.)
A favorite Porto Santo beach among locals and visitors is Calheta Beach at the south coast’s terminus, with its more secluded vibe and stellar sunrises and sunsets.
Overlooking the beach and the black lava rocks scattered on the sand and offshore, the casual Restaurante Ponta da Calheta has a pleasant terrace for lunch or dinner. Grilled limpets, octopus carpaccio, and bolo do caco, a traditional Madeiran flatbread, with garlic butter are among the tasty menu offerings.
Because Porto Santo is primarily a beach destination, many hotels close for the season, so check ahead. Two hotels you’ll find open in winter are Porto Santo Hotel and Spa and the all-inclusive Pestana Porto Santo.
Climb Porto Santo’s Pico do Castelo trail
Unlike other levadas, the Levada do Alecrim doesn’t present anything too precipitous or vertigo-inducing — Photo courtesy of Carlos Gouvia
Some of Porto Santo’s finest panoramic views are along the steep, rugged Pico do Castelo trail that climbs to the island’s highest peak. Once you’ve parked near an old cannon — part of the defense from pirates centuries ago — the short route navigates up a series of steps that zig-zag this way and that.
From the top, you’ll see planes landing on the airport’s single runway, the brilliant green 27-hole golf course, jagged offshore islets in the distance, and the grand expanse of Porto Santo before you. Beside your path, delicate wildflowers grow atop a low stone wall.
Not far from the top, there’s a bust of Antonio Shiappa de Azevedo, who was key in reforesting the island. Once at the summit, a garden shaded by Monterey and maritime pines and other trees beckons you to stop and sit a while.